Sewing-machine.



F. ZALESKI.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION mso JULY 26, I915.

1 ,Q1%,69. Patented Feb. 6, 1917.

Fig.1.

2 SHEETS-SHEET I.

lnvenTor. FrunK ZczlesKi,

byWkW A ltys.

IHE mmms PEHIRS ca. Awowumu wAsmumoH, u z.

F. ZALESKI.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 26, 1915.

Patented Feb.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

inventor. FrcmK ZalesKi,

,1 .WMW

Att

mr mwms PETERS w" PNOm-LHHO,WA5-INOTUN. o c

UN STATES lf All lElil lP FRANK ZALESKI, 01'! SOMERVILLE, MASSAGHUSETTS, ASSIGNGE T0 HE BUTTON "HOLE MACHINE COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION 03' MAINE.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Application filed July 26, 1915.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, FRANK ZALESKI, a subject of the Emperor of Germany, residing at Somerville, county of Middlesex, State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in SewingMachines, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawing, is a specification, like characters on the drawing representing like parts.

This invention relates to a sewing machine and particularly to a device for cut ting the needle thread at the end of the sewing operation, clamping the end of said thread and holding it clamped until after the initial stitches have been formed at the beginning of the next stitching operation, and the object of the invention is to provide a novel device of this character which is so constructed that when the initial stitches are formed at the beginning of the second stitching operation the clamped end of the needle thread will be released at such a time relative to the formation of said initial stitches as to permit the end to be drawn down to or into the work as said stitches are formed, thereby obviating the necessity of cutting off the projecting end after the stitching operation is completed. My invention is capable of being used in connection with sewing machines of various types, but 1 have chosen herein to illustrate it as it might be applied to a buttonhole sewing machine of the so-called Reece type, examples of which may be found in the following United States Patents:

No. 49%,280, March 28, 1893;

No. 655,637, August 7, 1900;

No. 1,030,589, June 25, 1912.

I wish, however, to make it clear that the invention is not limited in its application to a sewing machine of the particular type illustrated in said patents, but may be applied to other types of sewing machines.

in the drawings, Figure 1 is a side view of a portion of a buttonhole sewing machine such as illustrated in said above-mentioned patents having my improvements applied thereto;

Fi g. 2 is a plan view with a portion of the overhanging arm broken out;

Fig. 3 is a view of the thread-cutting and oiamping mechanism showing the position Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Feb. 8, 1.8 1%.

Serial No. 421,834.

of the parts at one point in the cycle of operations Fig. 4: is a view of the actuating device showing the position of the parts at another point in the cycle of operations;

Figs. 5 and 6 are views showing the operation of my invention.

1 is the frame of a so-called Reece buttonhole sewing machine wh ch carries the stitchforming mechanism. Said stitchforming mechanism includes an under thread mechanism, which is not herein illustrated, and an upper thread mechanism comprising a needle 2 carried by a needle bar 3 that reciprocatesin the overhanging arm lof the frame 1. The upper or needle thread is shown at if and it passes from the source of supply through a guide in the end of a takeup lever 5 and thence passes to the usual tension device 6, all as provided for in the above-mentioned patents.

The work in which the stitching is to be performed is clamped between relativelyfiXed and relatively-movable work-clamping members. The relatively-fixed work-clamping member is shown at 7 and the relativelymovable clamping member at 8, the latter being carried by an arm 9 pivoted at 10. 11 indicates the knife for cutting the bu"- tonhole. The parts as thus far described are such as are commonly found in a Reece buttonhole sewing machine and form no part of my invention.

In the buttonhole sewing machines such as illustrated in said above-mentioned patents the work-clamping means and the frame 1 with its stitch-forming mechanism are arranged to have a movement relative to each other, during the first portion of which relative movement the parts are brought from the buttonhole-cutting position into a relative position for the stitching operation to be in on the cut buttonhole, after which the relative movement causes the work to fed relative to the stitch-forming mechanism to effect the stitching along one side of and then back the other side of the buttonhole, and after the stitching on the bnttonhole is completed such relative movement continues to bring the parts to their initial position. In some sewing machines such i. lustrated in Patents No. d9 l,280 and No. 655,687, this relative movement is provided for by making the frame 1 capable of movement relative to the work clamps, the latter remaining stationary during the stitching opera tion, and in other machines, such, for instance, as that illustrated in Patent No. 1,030,589, the relative movement is provided for by giving the work clamps a movement while the frame 1 carrying the stitch-forming mechanism is held stationary. My invention is adaptable to either type of sewing machine.

1n the sewing machine herein illustrated when the stitching on a buttonhole has been completed the machine is brought to rest with the parts in the relative positions shown in full lines in Fig. 1 and with the Work clamps situated to hold the work in buttonhole-cutting position. \Vhen the machine is started in operation, the movable work-clamping members 8 are actuated to clamp the work against the relatively-fixed clamping member 7, and the cutter 11 is then operated to cut the buttonhole. After this occurs the work-clamping members and the frame 1 have a relative movement before the stitch-forming mechanism is set in operation suthcient to bring the work and the needle in proper relative position to form the buttonhole stitches around the cut buttonhole. needle and needle bar assume the dotted line position Fig. 1 relative to the workclamping means. The stitch-forming mechanism is then set in operation and the' work-clamping means and the stitch frame have a further relative movement to cause the work to be fed so as to carry the stitches along one side of the buttonholc, around the end of the buttenhole and back the other side of the buttonhole, and when the stitching is completed the stitch-forming mechanism is brought to rest with the needle bar raised and in substantially the dotted line position, Fig. 1. Thereafter the work clamping means and stitch frame have a further relative movement to bring the work into its initial position relative to the.

stitch-forming mechanism at the end of which relative movement the neeedle bar occupies the full line position Fig. 1.

I have thus briefly described the operation of a sewing machine of this type in order that my invention will be more easily understood.

In some sewing machines of this type a thread-cutting and clamping de 'ice is secured to the work-clamping means and constructed to clamp the needle thread at the end of the stitching operation and to sever said thread from the work, and then to maintain its clamping engagement with the thread until after the initial stitches have been formed in the next succeeding stitching operation, thus insuring that the first stitches will be properly formed. This is During this movement the.

illustrated in United States Patent No' 1,197,797, dated September 12, 1916.

My present invention aims to provide a novel device for actuating a thread clamp of this description by which the thread will be released at such a time relative to the formation of the initial stitches in a stitching operation that the thread end which has been clamped will be drawn down close to or into the cloth by the tightening .of the initial stitches. The thread-cutting and clamping device in connection with which I have shown my present invention comprises a relativelyfixed member 12 and a relatively-movable member 13. The fixed member 12 is carried by an arm 14 which is secured to the work-clamp-carrying arm 9 and the relatively-movable member 13 is carried by a lever 15 which is pivoted at 16 to said arm 9 and which is acted upon by a suitable spring 17 that tends to move the member 13 into its thread-clamping position shown in Fig. 2. The members 12 and 13 may be provided with thread-cutting means all as shown in said Patent No. 1,197,797 so that when they are closed together they cut any thread located between them and also grip the cut end thereof.

In applying my invention to a threadclamping device of this construction I have provided an actuating cam 20 which is carried by the frame 1 and which operates to open the clamping members 12 and 13 at the proper time in the cycle of operations to receive the needle thread at and then to clamp said thread and to release said thread after the stitching operation has been begun. This cam 20 cooperates with a projection 19 adjustably secured. to the end of an extension 18 which extends from the lever 15. Since the thread-clamping device is se cured to the work elamping means while the cam 20 is carried by the frame 1, the relative movement between the work-clamping means and the frame will produce a relative movement between the cam 20 and the projection 19. This cam 20 is constructed and supported so that when, during the operation of the machine, the stitching on the buttonhole has been completed, the stitchforming mechanism has been brought to rest with the needle bar raised and the frame 1 and work-clamping means are moving relative to each other to carry the needle bar from the dotted to the full line position Fig.7 1 relative to the work-clamp, the cam 20 will engage the projection 19 and open the thread-clamping jaws 12, 13, as shown in Fig. 3. When the jaws are open the portion of the needle thread 25 leading from the needle 2 to the work is drawn into the space between them and when the cam 20 passes out from under the projection 19, the aws will be closed thereby cutting the needle thread and clamping the end-thereof,

as shown in Fig. 1. The end of the needle thread is held by the clamp until the clamping jaws are opened again by the engagement of the projection 19 with the cam 20 during the relative movement of the workclamping means and the frame 1 which occurs after the machine has been set in operation again, and the cam is so constructed and adjusted that this releasing, of the needle thread occurs just as the initial stitches on a buttonhole are being formed. The cam 20 is shown as slidably mounted on a holder 21 which is in the form of a pin or rod that is mounted in bearings 22, 23 carried by a bracket 24E that is secured to the frame 1 by some suitable means as by the screw 25. The holder 21 is provided with a shoulder 28 that limits the sliding movement of the cam in one direction, and is also provided with a screw-threaded portion 26 which screw-threads into the bearing or projection 23, and with the knurled head 27 by which it may be turned. Said member 21 can thus be adjusted longitudinally thereby to adjust the position of the shoulder 28, which, as stated, acts as a stop to limit the sliding movement of the cam 20 in one direction. The bearing 23 limits the sliding movement of said cam in the opposite direction.

When the sewing machine is at rest between stitching operations the cam 20 is in the position relative to the projection 19 shown in Fig. 2, and the thread-clamps 12 and 13 are closed, the end of the needle thread being held between them, as shown in Fig. 1. When the machine is started the frame 1 and the work-clamping means have a relative movement which brings the needle into approximately the dotted line position Fig. 1, relative to the work-clamping means, and when this relative position is reached, the stitch-forming mechanism is set in operation. This relative movement between the work-clamping means and the frame 1 brings the projection 19 into position to engage the cam 20, and as the stitching begins and the frame 1 and work-clamping means continue their relative movement, the projection 19 wipes by the cam 20, as shown in Fig. 3, thus opening the thread-clamping jaws 12 and 13 and releasing the end of the needle thread. The adjustment of the cam 20 is such, however, that the end of the needle thread is not released until after the first stitches have been formed so that there will be no danger of the needle thread being drawn through the cloth during the formation and tightening of the first stitch. The cam 20 is freely slidable on its holder 21 and when the cam during its movement in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 3, has passed under the projection 19, the resiliency of the spring 17 will turn the arm 18 to force the projection 19 against the cam and this will operate to slide the cam longitudinally on its holder 21 into engagement with the stop 23. As the stitching along one side and then back the other side of the buttonhole proceeds, the cam 20 is at the right of the projection 19 against the stop 23, and when the stitching on the buttonhole has been completed and the stitch-forming mechanism has been brought to rest with the needle bar raised, as shown in dotted lines Fig. 1, then during the further relative movement of the frame 1 and work-clamping means to carry the needle from the dot ted to the full line position, Fig. l, the cam 20 will engage the projection 19 and open the clamping jaws to permit the needle thread to enter therebet'ween. During this operation the cam 20 is in the position shown in Fig. 4 against the bearing or lug 23, said cam having been moved into this position by the spring-impelled action of the projection thereagainst after said cam has passed the projection 19 in moving in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 3. When the cam 20 in moving in the direction of the arrow in Fig. 4 passes the projection 19, the jaws will close again under the influence of the spring 17, thus cutting the needle thread and clamping the end thereof.

In a complete cycle of operation the jaws are opened to receive the needle thread after the stitching operation is completed and while the needle bar is moving relative to the work-clamping means from the dotted to the full line position, Fig. 1, and are then opened again to release the end of the needle thread after the initial stitches on the buttonhole have been made.

When the sewing machine is brought to rest at the end of a stitching operation, the end 40 of the needle thread t is held in the clamping jaws 12 and 13 and said jaws rctain their clamping hold 011 the thread while the first stitches on the buttonhole are being formed.

In Fig. 5 I have shown a portion of the work 10 having a cut buttonhole b therein and have indicated the needle 2 as making the thrust through the work for the formation of the first stitch. Although in the ac tual operation of the machine the under thread mechanism cooperates with the needle 2 in forming the stitches, I have not shown any part of the under thread mechanism in Fig. 5 in order to avoid complicating the drawings. As the first stitch is formed, the end 10 of the needle thread 2 is held by the clamping jaws 12 and 13, said end being of considerable length, as shown in Fig. 5. As stated above, the clamping jaws 12 and 13 are opened to release the end 10 during the formation of the initial stitches 41 and before said stitches are completely tightened, so that in the tightening of the stitches the end 40 of the thread which has been held in the clamping members is drawn down close to the cloth, as shown in Fig. 6. The advantage of this is that when the buttonhole is completed there is no long projecting end of thread where the stitching was begun that requires to be cut off by hand in order to make a finished product. The particular point in the cycle of operations at which the thread end 40 is released from the clamping jaws depends upon the adjustment of the stop shoulder 28 and the construction herein illustrated provides means for making a fine accurate adjustment. In fact it is possible to so adjust the member 21 with its shoulder 28 that the end 40 of the thread will be drawn down either into the cloth or close to the cloth without, however, being drawn sufiiciently to prevent the proper formation of the first stitch. If the cam 20 is so adjusted that the end 40 of the thread will be drawn down close to the cloth, as shown in Fig. 6, then when the buttonhole is completed, the last stitches which are made in forming the buttonhole will overlie and cover up the end of the needle thread, thus making a finished product.

The particular adjustment of the member 21 which is necessary to accomplish the desired end depends upon the character of the work on which the buttonholes are being made and the character of the thread used, but the construction provides means for making a fine and delicate adjustment of the cam 20 so as to insure carrying out the desired operation. It will thus be seen that in my device the cam member by which the action of the thread-clamping member is controlled is movably mounted, and when in one position it operates to cause the actuation of the thread-clamping device to clamp the thread during the relative movement of the work-clamping means and stitch-frame, and when in another position, it causes the actuation of said thread-clamping device to release the thread during such relative movement. The clamping and releasing of the thread are thus accomplished at diferent points in the relative movement between the stitch frame and work-clamping means.

I claim:

1. In a sewing-machine, the combination with a frame carrying stitch-forming mechanism, of work-clamping means, said workclamping means and frame having a relative movement, a thread-clamping device carried by the work-clamping means, and an actuating cam therefor slidably mounted on the frame and adapted during the relative movement of the frame and work-clamping means to effect the clamping of the needle thread at the end of a stitching operation and the release of said thread during the formation of the initial stitches at the next succeeding stitching operation.

2. In a sewing machine, the combination with a frame carrying stitch-forming mechanism, of work-clamping means, said workclamping means and frame having a relative movement, a thread-clamping device carried by the work-clamping means, an actuating cam therefor slidably mounted on the frame and adapted during the relative movement of the frame and work-clamping means to effect the clamping of the needle thread at the end of a stitching operation and the release of said thread during the formation of the initial stitches at the next succeeding stitching operation, and adjustable means for limiting said. sliding move ment thereby to determine the point in the cycle of operations at which the needle thread is to be released.

3. In a sewing machine, the combination with a frame carrying stitch-forming mechanism, of work-clamping means, said workclamping means and frame having a relative movement, a thread-clamping device carried by the work-clamping means, an actuating cam therefor mounted on the frame and adapted during the relative movement of said frame and work-clamping means to effect the clamping .of the needle thread at the end of a stitching operation and to release the said thread during the formation of the initial stitches at the next succeeding stitching operation, and means for adjusting said cam thereby to determine the particular point in the cycle of operation at which the needle thread is to be released.

4. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with a frame carrying stitchforming mechanism, of work-clamping means, said work-clamping means and stitch-forming mechanism having a relative said cam being operative in one position during the relative movement of the stitchforming mechanism and f work-clamping means to cause the actuation of the threadclamping device to clamp the needle thread at the end of a stitching operation and in another position to actuate said threadclamping device to release the needle thread during the formation of the initial'stitches at the next succeeding stitching operation.

5. In a sewing maohine,the combination with a frame carrying stitch-forming mechanism, of work-clamping means, said workclamping means and frame having a relative mo vement, athread-clamping device mounted on the work-clamping means, an actuating cam mounted on the frame and capable of limited movement relative thereto, said cam being operative in one position during the relative movement of the frame and workclamping means to cause the actuation of the thread-clamping device to clamp the needle thread at the end of a stitching operation and in another position to actuate said thread-clamping device to release the needle thread during the formation of the initial stitches at the next succeeding stitching operation.

6. In a sewing machine, the combination with a frame carrying stitch-forming mechanism, of Worloclamping means, said Workclamping means and frame having a relative movement, of a thread-clamping device carried by one of said parts, automatically-operative means to close said clamping device, an actuating cam mounted on the other part and capable of limited movement relative thereto, said cam being operative in one position during the relative movement of the frame and Work-clamping means to momentarily open said clamp at the end of the stitching operation to permit the needle thread to enter the clamp and in another position to open said clamp to release the needle thread during the formation of he initial stitches at the next succeeding stitching operation, said automatically-operative means acting to close the clamp after it has been opened.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

FRANK ZALESKI.

flopies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. G. 

